First Week in Warsaw, Part Two: Malls, castles, palaces, parks and museums.

Warsaw Rising Museum

We walked out to the Warsaw Rising Museum dedicated to the Polish government and Home Army that continued the fight against the Nazis after occupation, then orchestrated a giant rising up against the Nazis in August 1944 with the understanding that Russia, just across the border would join once the battle began (the Soviets had been broadcasting radio programs encouraging the Poles to resist and fight the Nazis) and the other Allies would drop aid, they'd been assisting as much as possible throughout the occupation.  Unfortunately, The Russians decided it would be better to "let the Nazis break Poland so there could be no resistance to Communist take over.  The Americans had planes loaded with supplies ready to go but they needed permission from the Russians to land on their airstrips.  Russia refused and the US didn't want to cross them do to talks going on with Russia at the time.  

They ran resistance for the entire occupation, using the sewers as their communication passages, and  hiding great works of art before the Nazis could steal or destroy them.  It's funny because as you go to different museums in Warsaw (and Krakow), or pass statues and other artwork of the period set up in parks and along the street, the signs will say something like, "This [artwork/statue/etc.] was hidden in [1939; or 1944 during the Rising] and returned [either "after the war" or, in most cases, "in 1989"]" but these signs NEVER say who took the artwork or where it was hidden.  I guess I could find out if I did enough research but I like the mystery of it.  I like imagining that they do not say because there is some secret organization that is charged with protecting the artwork and they have a special place to hide it and plan to use that place again if they need to.  I clearly watch to many Indiana Jones and National Treasure movies.  It's just nice to think that there is someone  who's job it is to watch out for us or our art.  Even though that's probably not true and it was just some random thieves who grew consciences after the war or after communism fell.  See, I am a pessimist at heart.

So after all their sacrifice during the war, putting their families at risk as well as themselves, and raising a valiant fight the Polish Home Army was crushed and endured the unspeakable things you can imagine -- concentration camps, executions, families killed, etc., all because the Russians refused to help and used political pressure to prevent anyone else from helping.  The Nazis then literally razed the city to the ground building by building.  And then Poland was "liberated" by Russia/Soviet Union and pressed into communism.  The men and women who fought the battle or agreed with them were considered enemies of the state; many were arrested and imprisoned even after they returned to Poland from the concentration camps.  Only after communism fell was there heroism openly recognized.  Now you see the symbol all over Warsaw.  And it just proves that you don't have to win the war to be remembered as heroes.

"Mug shots" of some of the female Polish Home Army when they entered the concentration camp.
I loved that so many of them were defiantly smiling.

The Mall

On a lighter note, we also went to an amazing, huge grocery store IN THE MALL with escalators for the carts to ride!  They have carts that you check out with a coin in a slot (which you get back upon return) and you can take the cart all over the mall.  Who would have thought!  Ok, I admit, I sound a little naive or wide eyed but it was SO cool and so SMART!  Maybe they have these all over outside of Oklahoma and I sound even more idiotic than I thought, but still--I am impressed.

The Royal Palace

We went here on Sunday because it was free on Sunday.  Many of the museums are free on Sundays (including the Warsaw Rising Museum), another awesome thing about Warsaw.

Some might ask how we could go to the Royal Castle--wasn't it destroyed by the Nazis?  And the answer is, yes, it was.  The amazing thing about the Polish people is that they rebuilt Warsaw as it was prior to the Nazi destruction.  To the very smallest detail.   And they picked through the rubble to save and use what architectural detail pieces they could.  They even rebuilt some of the ancient walls around Old Town with the original bricks. And where they could not use original materials they used craftsmanship to recreate it.  That is why when you look at the photos I post, the buildings, churches, homes in Old Town and surrounding areas look as if they were built hundred of years earlier.  The Royal Castle as many of the original pieces of art and furniture.  While a lot of the art was taken out of the country for safety by various Polish families and returned, again, that mysterious statement containing no explanation about how they were saved and returned.  Of course, there are also reproductions.  But the reproductions are just as amazing as the originals.  There are frescos, woodwork, furniture, gilding, etc., that you cannot believe were created by modern artists.

[Matt has these photos.  I'l add them when I get home]

Lazienki Park and the Palace on the Water

Lazienki Park is a VERY large park in the center of Warsaw, it was once a hunting grounds attached to another castle.  The trees are old and there are manicured gardens, with dirt paths throughout  and a Palace literally build on the water, as well as other mansions and buildings used by the king when he lived there in the 1700s. The park is so peaceful and there are free Chopin concerts every Sunday afternoon in the summer right by the Chopin monument.  

We made a LONG walk to the park and back in the middle of the week and then on Sunday we were invited to go to one of the Chopin concerts with our representative, Grace, and her husband.  It was hot and humid and we had a long walk to the monument from where we parked (they could not believe we had walked to the park when we came by ourselves).  We had just sat down and the music just started when it started to pour down rain.

We moved to the trees on the edge of the amphitheater and were just dripped on.  Then it started to hail!!!  And I am talking Oklahoma sized hail.  The kind that leaves a bruise when it hits you on the shoulder or back.  The pianist kept playing, she had an awning set up over the piano but we could see she was getting drenched from the sides.  But many die-hard Chopin fans did not even move.  They sat under their umbrellas in the full force of the rain and hail.

With the hail we finally made a run for the car.  Luka didn't know what was going on.  Needless to say it was a BLAST!  We couldn't stop laughing.  

[I'll add photos tomorrow at a WiFi place--our internet access is limited here]